Berluti: Alessandro Satori uses genealogy and evolution as Muse

Beruti’s latest fall/winter 2013 menswear collection, designed by Alessandro Sartori, takes inspiration from genealogy, evolution, and the outdoors. Held appropriately at the Museum of Natural History in Paris, Sartori presented primarily three-piece suits in luxuriously dramatic fabrics, such as four-, five-, and six-ply cashmere, mohair, cheviot wool, and angora. Modern design and lines were lent to the tailoring with tapered ankles, full hip trousers, long, single-breasted jackets, and single buttons. What makes this collection special are the treatments Sartori instills upon the fabrics and textiles. Repeatedly washed leather creates a waxed cotton look, over-processed nubuck resembles aged patina, and cashmere felt is combined with angora, all creating a completely different aesthetic than their origins. This transition offers a message of change and creates dynamic, new looks.

Major highlights of the collection include the waxed kangaroo leather trench coat lined in cashmere, the water repellant beaver hat, and a waxed weekender bag. Known for their exquisite footwear, Berluti introduced a derby shoe in punched leather, which is available in three colors, and a wax textured knee high boot.

Since 1895, successive generations of the Berluti family have developed not only an exceptional savoir-faire in mastering shape, leather, and patina, but also a profound understanding of the foot. The result is shoes of unrivalled comfort and elegance. More than a maker of exquisite luxury shoes, Berluti has always epitomized a certain way of life. It was only natural, then, that it should explore new domains, notably leather goods in 2005 and henceforth ready-to-wear with the arrival of artistic director Alessandro Sartori.

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