It’s been nearly two years since the passing of British fashion stylist and designer Judy Blame, but Kim Jones hasn’t forgotten. Instead, Dior’s menswear designer paid homage to the late punk icon with a new collection—Fall/Winter 2020, presented in Paris just three days ago. “This show is dedicated to the memory of Judy Blame, a close friend and pioneer in the world of fashion, whose love of couture was an inspiration to us all,” said Jones.
Fashion patrons may remember Jones’ collaboration with Blame five years ago—Fall/Winter 2015, when Jones was at Louis Vuitton—in remembrance of Christopher Nemeth. The show allowed Jones and Blame to express their shared love for artistic detail and rebellion, which is today seen in a full collection of clothing and accessories that creatively screams “Blame.”
Courtesy of Dior.
At the show, guests sat opposite Villa Eugénie-designed glass chambers of fire turned to smoke, as Honey Dijon’s music got models in the mood. “Big Love” by Fleetwood Mac moved the crowd, while new looks lent meaning back to the house’s original DNA codes. Here with a twist, we saw a return to the elegant Dior draping, construction, and tailoring it’s acclaimed for.
Sumptuous materials like silk and suede made up many of the looks, and all were complemented by long opera gloves. Men paraded down the runway in regal trousers and coats—ranging from suit jackets to bombers that zipped up the back, and bar jackets with buttons covered in fabric. A play on volume and texture was a sweet trick to the eye, accentuated with smart plating and decadent draping.
Courtesy of Dior.
Pins and belt loop accessories dangled with long charms and chains; beret hats by Stephen Jones sat slightly off-kilter on the head; thin belts and deep pockets were seen on ultra-tailored trousers; prints on shirts ranged from newspaper clippings to embellished paisley; sweaters were seen pulled over button-down dress shirts in torn cashmere; and accessories—like a new zip-up leather logo ankle boot—stunned.
Jewelry was an obvious big note for the house, as the men’s accessories designer Yoon Ahn reinterpreted notable Blame pieces with iconic Dior twists—engraved and embossed Dior logos, adorned with cannage or floral motifs. For bags, we saw a return to the Saddle with the Soft Saddle in updated, more fluid forms. Also new this season were must-have graphic briefcases and camera bags crafted in black, camel, and navy blue calfskin.
Courtesy of Dior.
Surely the finale for a reason, the show closed with a look unlike any other—an embroidered topcoat with silver detailing that dripped down like fleeting feathers.
Courtesy of Dior.
Courtesy of Dior.
Courtesy of Dior.
