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Fashion Week SS21: Gabriela Hearst, APOTTS, Bronx and Banco and More

Eliza Jordan

17 September 2020

While fashion week as we know it may forever be changed, brands are still finding ways to introduce their latest seasonal collections—whether in person or online. Here, we’re sharing what’s new from Gabriela Hearst, APOTTS, Rebecca Minkoff, and Bronx and Banco.

Gabriela Hearst’s unwavering dedication to responsible clothing climbs new heights with the designer’s latest collection. For Spring/Summer 2021, Heart’s ready-to-wear line for men is made entirely from repurposed materials, such as cashmere, wool silk, cotton, linen, and linen and cashmere corduroy. With unique details like contrast stitching or herringbone ribbing, each lightweight piece is treated with craftsmanship handwork. On the inside, suede is treated with nappa finish so that it can remain light and unlined. With ease, the new collection also presents minimal parkas with snap closures, overshirts in linen denim, and 5-pocket pants that can easily be dressed up or down, layered or worn solo. Knits—whether a handknit cashmere pullover, a zip-up hoodie in silk cashmere, or a Merino blazer that’s cut like a cardigan—transform Heart’s signature feel for a new look. An emphasis on tailoring is integral, too, with traditional construction at the center of blazers, trousers, and peacoats.

Gabriela Hearst.

Photo by Jack Webb, courtesy of Gabriela Hearst.

The emerging fashion designer Aaron Potts behind the label APOTTS presented his latest unisex collection “Babyland Rag” this week with a focus on the reimagined uniform. Versatile pieces that can be mixed, matched, and made a staple were seen with artistic silhouettes. Inspired equally by modern art and workwear, Spring/Summer 2021 works for all genders, all sizes, and all ages, rather invoking a spirit than a particular look. Pulled from the collection’s name, dresses, petticoats, and workwear are seen through a doll-like lens. Potts took a close look at the topsy-turvy doll popular in the American South in the 19th century and examined its relationship to slavery and its resulting Black culture today. Servitude is explored through a new lens, resulting in a nuanced interpretation of a dynamic that’s been disguised over time. Grand proportions of simple fabrics are seen parachuting to the floor, with tiered dresses and denim pieces bringing new meaning to what it means to work and get dressed for it.

Rebecca Minkoff was presented her Fall/Winter 2020 collection in New York City just a few days ago. With masks in tow to stay cautious yet still fashion, models exuded an effortless aesthetic with rock-and-roll flare. Aligning with the designer’s DNA of being style that meets both the East and West coasts, new pieces also balance the masculine and feminine, the hard and soft, and the multifaceted personalities of the women that wear the brand. Leopard and plaid prints create sharp dialogue with leather bags and studded boots; bohemian accents are seen through fringe and florals; and details like ruffles and voluminous sleeves add a touch of sweet to the moto jackets, fur vests, and chain belts they confidently contrast with.

Gabriela Hearst.

Photo by Jack Webb, courtesy of Gabriela Hearst.

Bronx and Banco’s Spring/Summer 2021 presentation was also presented live in Manhattan, yesterday on the terrace of Spring Studios. Entitled “The Retreat,” the new ready-to-wear line was inspired by rebirth and renewal—a new journey for the world we’re living in today. Since its inception in 2009, the Australian brand has evoked a sense of sensual style, playful through details like braided fabrics and whimsical cuts. Designer Natalie De-Banco’s love for design and character is explained through her fashion, rooted in colors and texture borrowed from scenic natural landscapes, and this line epitomizes that focus. For the latest offering, De-Banco got back to her roots to embrace a natural way of live, presenting an array of dresses that flutter in the wind. Paired with headbands in the same color, matching shoes, or elegant handmade jewelry by GBGH—a special collaboration that debuts this October—the dresses are long with chunky chain straps and intricate cut-outs, short and made entirely with feathers, or barely there and held together by large warrior-like pieces of metal.

 

APOTTS

Courtesy of APOTTS.

 

 

APOTTS

Courtesy of APOTTS.

 

 

Rebecca Minkoff.

Photo by David X Prutting for BFA, courtesy of Rebecca Minkoff.

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