Kicking off our look at London Fashion Week, are the Fall/Winter 2019 collections shown by Peter Pilotto, Erdem, Simone Rocha, and Pringle of Scotland.
Taking another look at years gone by for means of inspiration, Erdem’s Fall/Winter 2019 collection appeared right at home in a hall filled with classical portraits framed in gilded gold. Florals were an essential element this season, imagined in a number of colors, sizes, and materials, like an aqua-blue silky brocade, embroidery, and a black lace iteration. Silhouettes varied in shape and volume, suggesting hints from past decades, seen in pieces looks like a fuchsia plaid dress with puffed shoulders and an oversized neck tie, and the olive-green skirt and jacket set with the sequined floral embellishments. Details we loved included the voluminous sleek up-dos on each model, and the sheer black veils and elbow length gloves accompanying many looks.
Peter Pilotto played around with the traditional ideas of femininity in the shadows of a grand library, where the models made their way across a deeply hued patterned carpet in garments ranging across the color spectrum. Cuts were roomy and relaxed with lightly accentuated waistlines and subtle sultry details, like lowered necklines and exposed shoulders. Silk flowed effortlessly and gathered softly in the form of printed blouses, frilled dresses, and confident pant suits. Some highlights included the sunset colored collared jumpsuit with the fluffy shoulder bag, the brilliant blue dress that tied at the neck, and the two-tone silky accordion pleated gown.
Going back to the basics that made Pringle of Scotland what it is today, the brand presented us with a collection centered around its iconic Scottish knit cashmere. Along with a fundamental palette of solid colors like black, cream, navy, hazelnut, and charcoal, the collection featured the inclusion of the occasional bold tartan, zigzag, or checked graphics, all informed by classic designs from the brand’s archives. A neutral backdrop decorated with a single crystal-like sculpture set the stage for the comfortable, uncomplicated silhouettes, which included updated takes on the quintessential trousers and sweater pairing and several versions of a turtleneck sweater dress—our favorite of which had a bustier detail and a silver belt.
For Simone Rocha, thoughts on intimacy, security, privacy, and femininity were brought to life in the simple yet elegant stays of a wainscoted hall, presented by a cast of models of all ages. Inspired by the fabric tapestries of the late artist Louise Bourgeois, which she made from her own clothing, many designs intimately exposed the undergarments (seen in pieces like a nude gown with a sheer top and red details). Female forms were embedded into masculine tailoring, which was complemented by soft, sheer pastels, vibrant prints, and sparkling sequins. Standout looks included the voluminous baby blue dress, worn with knee high socks, and the collared dresses with the full skirts and sleeves and opposing-colored bra-like tops, which were worn as an outer accessory.