Fendi amplified its theme of dualism with a dynamic dialogue centered around the connection of two personalities. Special for the occasion, and for those century-long Fendi fans, as well, third generation designer Silvia Venturini Fendi collaborated with Karl Lagerfeld to present a thoughtful and expressive presentation with both designers’ flare-focused details. Largely sourced from Lagerfeld’s mood board of handwritten notes, sketches, and vintage photographs, the new pieces were the epitome of a juxtaposition—futuristic and classic; free-flowing and structured; functional and ornate. From the beginning, the collection realized Lagerfeld’s sketches, first seen with a piece featuring an asymmetrical collar wrapping from one side as a shawl collar to the other as a notch lapel. Then, down a long black carpet runway clad with FF logo light stamps, we saw that very FF logo seemingly from the future alternating with a calligraphic one for accessories like chevalier rings and gold chains. And shoes? Shoes embody Lagerfeld’s signature approach—some Cuban heels, some patent leather.
The house’s iconic Baguette bag also makes its debut for men, including styles, small and large, in crocodile, mink, and leather. Homing in on the functional-yet-ornate duality aspect, cases are studded and foldable, yet held in transparent covers that double as chic (almost too chic!) shopping bags. The functionality expands from there, as the bag can be worn cross-body, carried by hand, and worn as a belt bag. The brand’s Peekaboo bag, which recently celebrated its tenth anniversary, also got an evolutionary update with the X-Life Fit and Essential styles. Lastly, a collaboration with Japanese handbag brand PORTER caught attention for its signature bonded nylon materials reimagined with two iconic Fendi shapes. With this new collection, sartorial elegance is back, and most certainly with a few unforgettable celebrated twists.
ISAIA made many a few big statements with its new collection, too—all dedicated to the iconic Teatro di San Carlo in Napoli. At the Fondazione Cariplo, the brand debuted an elegant presentation focused on a checker pattern. The new print reoccurs throughout the collection, with pieces like the suit jacket and vest featuring their own versions—some macro, some combined with the coral logo. A colorful story is reinterpreted with medium-dark tones, animated by mélange effects and mouliné textures.
With powerful shades of brick red, camel, Air Force blue, and cyclamen, the collection presents an unexpected selection of pieces that directly draw heritage from the famous theater, such as the new smoking jacket. New fabrics, like a cashmere and alpaca bouclé, take a look at high-performance yarns, while each piece utilizes the brand’s high-quality standards of tailoring.
Emporio Armani knows well how to create its own energy. For its “Liberty” show in Milan, it started by creating energy from within a dark horizon. A polished pitch black runway set the stage for the backdrop—outfitted with stripes of LED lights that seemed to drip purple—as models made their way out to a jungle tune entitled Moonlight (Martin Eyerer Remix) by Max Alzamora & Nuclius. That tropical song was the perfect introduction for the collection that followed—an ode to the energy of the animal world and the natural ambiance of the classic Emporio Armani man. Attire for this hybrid habitat followed with narrow-shouldered jackets and fluid trousers, as well as wild patterns inspired by albino animals.
Svelte textures were screen-printed, laser-cut, and cuffed, while the use of all animal skins—including effects of fur, python, crocodile scales, feline stripes, and zebra patterns—all took on an eco-friendly vow. Hues of cool white and frosted blue popped with accents of black and red in prints and patterns like Prince of Wales and classic checks. To top off “Liberty,” we took note of the accessories—an array of eco-fur duffel bags, backpacks, belt bags, and vests.
Tom Ford’s focus for Fall/Winter 2019 extends far beyond suits. Accessories are hyper-focused, paired strategically with looks for uniformity. A black all-leather look is accompanied by gloves, a watch, sunglasses, and a hat—all in black. A rich caramel-colored coat with a side zipper, buttoned hand pockets in the front, and a black interior is paired with black shades and a caramel-colored leather bag with black trim. And a look of olive, light coffee brown, and bronze is seen tied together—with each piece matching another, like the puffer coat and the turtle neck—by black accessories on the head, hands, and feet.