We’re closing out Men’s Milan Fashion Week with a look at the Fall/Winter 2020-21 collections, presentations, and events.
Gucci continued to challenge conceptions of masculinity in Milan, in a theatrical show that featured a massive pendulum swinging and marking time in the middle of a vast runway. A desertion from Patriarchal norms was suggested, veering away from stereotypes and social constraints, calling for a man who is kind, caring, loving, complicated, and free from toxicity. That was seen in an array of cozy knitwear, from cardigans to vests, and sweaters to pullovers. Pants, from plaid to metallic, were darted, loose, cropped, or cut out. Jackets with florals and leopard prints reminded us of what you’d find in a thrift store, especially paired with loafers, Mary Janes, and heeled boots, complete with knee socks.
Giorgio Armani debuted its Fall/Winter 2020-21 collection on a slick back runway with a projection of not-so-romantic snow falling behind it. Oversized coats and big boots all in black were paired with dark sunglasses and oversized gloves. This season was all about the outerwear—oversized puffers, double-breasted overcoats, collarless jackets paired with vests, and details like velvet lapels. The palette ranged from black to white, grey to dull blue, khaki to earthy brown, with pops of patterns, red, and green.
In Milan on January 9, Moncler held a launch event for 6 MONCLER 1017 ALYX 9SM. Matthew Williams is the founder and creative director behind the collection, which put function and comfort first, for a mix of modular outerwear that was decidedly modern. There were windbreakers, parkas, puffers, and vests in a metropolitan style, along with accessories like chain belts, hooded backpacks, neoprene boots, and more. In mostly grey, black, and white—with moments of orange and red—we also saw the use of Econyl ®, a regenerated nylon derived from waste materials like plastic recovered from the oceans.
Salvatore Ferragamo offered a warm contrast to the sleek, cold, and calculated collections of the season presented in Milan the past week. A sand-colored runway gave way to looks rich in texture, knits, and layers in tones of chocolate, camel, brick, navy, cream, and army green. Creative Director Paul Andrew imaged six alpha males—the businessman, biker, racing driver, sailor, soldier, and surfer—when creating looks that were an obvious update on the masculine uniform. “A man today is not obliged to assume a single, set role: he can be a multitude, and he can change his worn identity any time he wishes. That’s a freedom we want to explore in the 2020s,” said Andrew.