Sunnei SS20 menswear

Sunnei's SS20 menswear collection.

Sunnei SS20 menswear

Sunnei's SS20 menswear collection.

Sunnei SS20 menswear

Sunnei's SS20 menswear collection.

Canali SS20 menswear

Canali's SS20 menswear collection.

Canali SS20 menswear

Canali's SS20 menswear collection.

Canali SS20 menswear

Canali's SS20 menswear collection.

DSqaured2

Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Dsquared2.

Dsquared2  spring/summer 2020 collection.

Dsquared2 spring/summer 2020 collection.

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Milan

MFW Men’s SS20: Sunnei, Dsquared2, and Canali

For its fifth anniversary, Sunnei presented two unique and concurrent projects: its Spring/Summer 2020 collection and “Bianco Sunnei.” The latter project served as the site for the season’s show, and will be a new space to host cultural programming in an up-and-coming Milan neighborhood on the outskirts of the city. The collection was conceived around a color palette of dark to bright, reflecting an emotional attitude of the 15 creative minds on Sunnei’s team and the design duo Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo. Large fits with fluid lines defined the women’s section of the collection, while boxy volumes were the main theme for the menswear looks. Layering was a recurring feature in the construction and styling of the garments. Accessories provided moments of contrast in color and material, as well.

In a wardrobe inspired by the neon lights, colors, and energy of Hong Kong, the “fighters” of Dsquared2’s Spring/Summer 2020 collection, were conceived of as pacifists of pop culture. Giant floral and embellished tiger prints, boxer styled robes, jackets and shorts appeared on the red-polished runway. Pants and prints defined the collection, with three shapes of high-waisted trousers constructed in cotton canvas, soft leather, or dark denim, revealing intriguing embroidery to further enhance the theme of the line. Tiger stripe camouflage, oversized chrysanthemums, monkeys, and Eastern motifs adorned the opulent fabrics. Moreover, original Bruce Lee movie posters, reprinted in collaboration with the Bruce Lee Foundation, appeared on jersey pieces for men and women. Other central pieces to the collection were men’s tanks in transparent tulle, lace tops, and bomber jackets. A women’s cropped padded printed kimono bomber, designed to be worn upside down, was an unexpected and fun addition to the line. Zips and lacing appeared in jumpsuits, blue nylon details for men, and gold leather for women, while braiding, gold pearls, and stripes of blue or red decorated shoes, sandals, and stilettos.

Presented during a cocktail event during Milan Fashion Week, the summer variation of the Canali Black Edition was a synergy of experimental materials and silhouettes. On the terrace of a high-rise building overlooking the city, guests in black, white, and grey matched the color palette of the collection. T-shirts, sweaters, and tracksuits were made in a technical and high-tech material, leaftec, exclusive to Canali. The fabric is extremely lightweight and adapts to numerous conditions, resistant to wind, rain, and wear, resulting in versatile menswear. The minimalist palette created strong optics, while the Canali name surfaced throughout in the form of modern taping, screen prints, or textured jacquard.

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