Versace

Versace Men's Spring/Summer 2020.

Versace

Versace Men's Spring/Summer 2020.

Missoni

Missoni men's Spring/Summer 2020.

Missoni

Missoni men's Spring/Summer 2020.

Santoni

Santoni men's Spring/Summer 2020.

Santoni

Santoni men's Spring/Summer 2020.

Etro

Etro men's Spring/Summer 2020.

Etro men's Spring/Summer 2020.

Etro men's Spring/Summer 2020.

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Milan

MFW Men’s SS20: Versace, Santoni, Missoni, Etro

Set within an opulent pink garden overlooked by a Versace-plated racecar, the Versace men’s Spring/Summer 2020 collection was a celebration of contemporary masculinity. An automotive theme in shades of pink and neon was skillfully used, as Donatella Versace said, “ to explore the elements that empower a man.” This personal journey of a young man coming of age and finding his confidence was subtly referenced throughout the entire collection. Leather outerwear, motorcycle vests, and dark denim were introduced as wardrobe essentials, central pieces to the collection. Old met new with a layering of signature Versace styles and prints reinterpreted in saturated colors and styled with new pieces. Archival prints found a new life, one in particular featuring the Roman god Bacchus hand-painted by artist and friend of the house, Andy Dixon. Opulent vases and a racecar motif from Dixon’s work were developed into seasonal patterns and fabrications. Challenging the stereotypes of masculinity through tailoring, fabric, and prints, the season is a spirited interpretation of confidence through the house’s signature maximalist style.

This season an exclusive Cineclub, set within the enchanting Palazzo Gallarati Scotti, served as scenery for the Santoni Spring/Summer 2020 collection. There, an exclusive selection of films exploring the idea of beauty was showcased. Four separate, yet complementary chapters defined the collection. Chapter one highlighted the Santoni California Oxford, presented in the new deepness veneer: a pictorial process with a gradient effect in an artistic game of nuance. Desert imagery inspired chapter two, the wild selection, featuring sandy dunes, derby shoes, and desert boots. Chapter three saw the sophisticated leisure styles of the Positano loafer and the Dip White, inspired by the world of sailing and evoking an effortless elegance of vacation. Chapter four’s downtown vibe presented new sneaker styles, characterized by a retro touch and natural rubber soles.

Inspired by the iconic style of Serge Gainsbourg, the Missoni men’s Spring/Summer 2020 collection channeled the poetic irreverence and inherent nonchalance that defined the French man’s iconic style. Colors were used imaginatively, ranging from earthy tones to deep corals, turquoises and sunflower yellow. It brought to mind Mediterranean natural beauty and the landscapes of the Côte d’Azur. Space-dyed yarns and tinted degradé pieces added depth and texture to a versatile collection featuring unstructured pea-coats, half-lined double-breasted blazers, and knit crew-necks and cardigans. An attention to detail and quality was evident throughout, from the production of a limited-edition knitwear piece, to the beautiful silk linings of jackets and coats recalling Impressionist paintings.

For Spring/Summer 2020, we were treated to a rediscovery of Etro’s essence and heritage. The brand’s adventurous and traveling spirit was celebrated with effortless elegance, eclectic charm, and signature iconography and prints. Kean Etro combined an intellectual mix of inspirations from different cultures in loose, relaxed silhouettes, channeling a nomadic vibe. On the runway, the house’s iconic Paisley print met graphic T-shirts and hoodies. The Etro x Star Wars capsule collection was also introduced in Milan—an exclusive collaboration with Walt Disney Pictures and Lucasfilm, just a few months before the official release of the ninth episode of the Star Wars saga.

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