Milan Fashion Week is underway, so we’re highlighting the best details from the Spring/Summer 2020 presentations from brands like Fendi, Marni, Sportmax, and Etro.
A black, reflective runway provided the simple ground Fendi needed for its “Solar Flair” presentation. With an Italian sunrise in mind, a circular backdrop then mimicked a warm sun on its way down, parting the set walls in a circular palette of faded, burnt orange. From there, designer Silvia Venturini Fendi’s creations stole the show—a playful collection of mixed textures and patterns fit for an unapologetic dream. From ethereal and ultra-feminine to oversized and robust, we saw an array of looks that were nothing short of dynamic. Floral blooms and block-cut blanket flowers triggered the 1970s mood board we all desired to see; strips of fur alternated with gingham fabric to make up a large collarless coat (seemingly fit for any season); and accessories—like large rounded-square sunglasses with Fendi chains, block-heeled shoes, and raffia woven Peekboo bags—all topped our must-have lists. Throughout the show, we were also transported to a fairytale full of coordination, thanks to matching coats and bags, socks and tops, and bralettes and skirts in the same patterns and hues. Quilted pieces stole some attention, too, bringing back the idea that somehow, some way, function and style could meet in the middle.
In a concrete room, bare to color aside from strips and stripes on columns, Marni made tropical imaginations a reality with its “Act II” collection. The new line was inspired by Tachitropirina—an anti-infective, antipyretic, and anti-toxic drug that can treat Tropical Malady—and provided a direct line to the flora and fauna around us with new clothing and accessories. Models with monstera palm leaves sprouting from their heads wore colorful garments and simple, bright shoes. To follow, we saw harvest basket bags, shoes with upside down soles, and everyday clothing pieces that were cut, distorted, and reassembled for new silhouettes. Color-blocked looks of orange and pink darted by, with a reserved crew neck up top and a daring sky-high slit that tied at the waist down below. Large mermaid poufs of fabric poured out from underneath fitted leather skirts, paired with a knit sweater that’s torn at the shoulder. For those suffering from tropical hypersensitivity, we recommend a dose of Tachitropirina, and pronto.
Sportmax’s new attitude is a fashionable force to be reckoned with. With two rows of bright lights and large strips of white fabric hanging above (inspired by the large-scale kinetic works of artist Daniel Wurtzel), the new collection was presented on a sweeping concrete runway lined with stadium seating. First, we fell in love with the fluid shirt dresses and kaftans—most of which looked like they were faded by a hot summer sun. Lots of cotton and silk set the seasonal tone, followed by more sturdy materials for chilly nights, like rubberized jersey, georgette, and leather. Tailored looks then took charge with structured suits in soft fabrics. Footwear, like ankle-wrap sandals and futuristic sneakers, complemented bucket bags, new eyewear shapes, and sporty leather caps. For the Sportmax girl, it’s possible to take athleisure to the next level.
In a chic courtyard featuring miniature hot air balloons adorned with leopard spots and tribal-esque details, Etro models walked on a palette of wooden boards above large pond pebbles and grass below. Terracotta roofs in the background provided a warm color palette for the collection that followed. A bohemian spirit flowed through the presentation, dotted with patterns enriched by shades of plum, dark orange, and olive. High-waisted leopard print shorts were paired with a wide belt, an elegant cream top with unique embroidery, roll-down boots, and a bag with fringe trim. Textured fabrics were enriched by elaborated knits, and we fell for cotton pinchos, maxi cardigans, and shirts worn over shorts that were belted at the waist. The brand’s usual paisleys also made an appearance in blue on trousers, and up top, the brand celebrated a line of shirts for the brand’s new #EtroByYourName project. Intended to celebrate timelessness and the first men’s shirts created by Gimmo Etro in the 1960s, the unisex line features a Pegasus on the pocket and is customizable. For the finale, barefoot Etro girls paraded down the runway in jeans and #EtroByYourName tops, eluding to summer fun on the horizon.