With New York Fashion Week under way, we’re highlighting the new Fall/Winter 2020 collections being shown. Here, you’ll find our favorite details from presentations by Gabriela Hearst, Adeam, Prabal Gurung, and Tadashi Shoji.
In the midst of the global warming crisis, Gabriela Hearst’s /Winter 2020 focused on reducing waste while maintaining brand values. For its show space, the brand utilized bales of locally sourced recycled paper to create walls and fixtures in the center of the space. Elements like recycled cashmere, repurposed antique Turkish rugs, and hand-knitting by female artisans from the non-profit Manos Del Uruguay ensured a more sustainable approach than typical methods and sourcing. Mainstays of the season included retro-inspired silhouettes and details like combat boots, hand-painted prints and patterns, and natural materials like silk in place of synthetics—seen in looks like a rainbow knit overcoat that tied at the waist, a military-inspired camel colored pant suit, and an all-black leather dress and trench coat with a whimsical painted print.
Adeam looked at the Japanese football game Kemari as inspiration for its Fall/Winter 2020 collection. Traditionally played by aristocrats during the Heian Period (794—1185 CE), the game took place on celebratory occasions and involved colorful, elaborate kimonos. The brand employed voluminous, billowy silhouettes paired with feminine details like ruffles, and wow-worthy hems with soft, long trains, to reinterpret the movement of the Kemari costumes. In contrast with the more dramatic elements, we saw pieces like cleanly tailored suits, athletic bike shorts, and sleek faux leather track pants. Looks we’re still thinking about include a silky red gown with the blazer-style top and full high-low skirt, and a simple beige trapeze dress with ruffled details on the skirt.
Prabal Gurung debuted a collection inspired by the feeling of belonging and purpose synonymous with living in the city. Dark romance shone through the pastels and deep jewel tones of Isabelle Menin’s surrealist floral paintings, which came alive in prints created especially for the collection. Highlights included looks like a chic body-hugging dress in black and sparkling gunmetal with a cutout at the waist, styled with a feathered clutch; and an all-over floral pant suit with the feathered shoulder embellishment.
Enamored by the dynasties and legends of the Mongolian empire, Tadashi Shoji examined the country’s extensive history and its nomadic roots. Mainstays of the Fall/Winter 2020 season included traditional traveler’s outerwear like fur-lined coats and hats, decadent metallic brocades, sequined accents, and floor-length gowns with full skirts. Cues from monks’ robes were reflected in one-shouldered silhouettes with asymmetric necklines, and the traditional lavish interiors of felt Ger tents were reimagined in embroideries, layered looks, and draping—seen in looks like a blue printed gown paired with a fur and brocade coat and gloves, or a printed form-fitting printed dress in earth tones, reminiscent of a decadent tapestry.