With New York Fashion Week under way, we’re highlighting the new Fall/Winter 2020 collections being shown. Here, you’ll find our favorite details from presentations by Christian Siriano, Camilla & Marc, and Anna Sui.
Inspired by a scene in an abandoned funhouse from the film Birds of Prey, Christian Siriano’s Fall/Winter 2020 collection offered a myriad of imaginative designs interspersed with hints of mythical entities, gothic style, and Dadaism. Presented at Spring Street Studios against a neon pink backdrop, looks ranged from tank tops with trousers to silky flowing ballgowns, reminding us of an elevated day at the carnival, where everyone—performers and fairgoers alike—arrived dressed by the designer. An element of theatrics was seen in looks like a ringmaster-esque glittering tailcoat worn with pinstripe trousers, or a black and white tuxedo-style gown with an exaggerated structured overlay. The collection included a variety of silhouettes like body-hugging dresses with giant ruched sleeves, floor-length gowns with tulle pompoms or oversized ruffles, chic pantsuits, and (our favorite) a selection of sculptural dresses worn with wide-brimmed top hats.
For Fall/Winter 2020 the desert modernist vibes of Palm Springs and the undeniably cool of Los Angeles collided in Camilla & Marc’s new collection. Channeling her travels through California, creative director Camilla Freeman-Topper turned to the region’s landscape and minimalist architecture, pairing it with the power and seductive energy of the Hollywood elite. Flowing and comfortable silhouettes embraced the laidback Californian lifestyle, while a glamorous attitude was maintained through elements like chic suits, sensual cutout details, bold prints, and a palette that mixed vibrant hues with dusty earth tones. Highlights included looks like a retro plaid dress and blazer, a blue printed skirt styled with a matching purse and calf-length poncho-style overlay, and a mock neck dress with long sleeves and an open waist detail.
Anna Sui highlighted nocturnal glam with a gothic twist for its new collection. Influenced by horror films from the 1960s (like Mario Bava’s Blood and Black Lace) and Eric Bowman’s 1974 photograph of Bianca Jagger, a moody, dramatic palette, flooded the show space and collection with black, white, deep purple, chartreuse, and red. Indulgent prints, materials, and eye-catching accessories complimented a range of feminine silhouettes and elements like vinyl boots, velvet, lingerie lace, draped necklaces, and elbow-length gloves. Highlights included a black vinyl and lace dress worn with lace up boots; a pink, red, and purple look with the printed coat and hoodie, clashing patterned skirt, and colored tights; and a Victorian dress in green and gold with the ruffles. Models were styled with a twist on a pompadour hairstyle, a dark iridescent lid, and deep red lip.