The sprawling city of Shanghai found a temporary home in Vivenne Tam’s spring/summer 2014 presentation at Lincoln Center. An enormous, illuminated, illustration of Shanghai’s skyline was the backdrop for Tam’s ethereal waifs’ short jaunt down the runway.
This season the designer embraced Eastern inspiration with a collection that was a contemporary ode to 1930s Shanghai calendar girls. At first, monochromes dominated much of the presentation centered around abstract black-and-white graphic patterns. However, Tam soon lit up the runway with vibrant jade, blue, and burnt orange tones. Delicate floral overlays and prints were a definitive, and simple flower and leaf patterns found their way onto dresses, updated peplums, and trend-right crop shirts.
Hermès’ fall/winter 2017-18
Photo by by Jean-François José
Tam also got creative with high-low hems, showing us tops that boasted midriff-baring fronts and cape-like, draping backs. Creative combinations such as high-waist shorts paired with an A-line cut out jacket experimented with volume, and tidy fit-and-flare dresses with origami inspired detail were a further nod to the calendar girl muses of Shanghai. All in all, the thoughtful use of color, trend-driven details, and flattering cuts in Tam’s collection give it a casual wearability that many women will no doubt find attractive.
