New York Fashion Week has come to an end, so we’re highlighting a final selection of our favorite new debuts. Below, we spotlight Spring/Summer 2020 collections from Pyer Moss, Eckhaus Latta, The Row, and La Doyenne.
On the stage of Brooklyn’s Kings Theatre, designer Pyer Moss debuted the brand’s “Sister” collection, paying homge to the inventor of Rock ‘N’ Roll, Sister Rosetta Tharpe. Featuring artwork by Richard Phillips, the collection used abstracted graphics to honor Tharpe’s life and career—seen in pieces like a white blazer with a minimalistic detail mimicking the body of a guitar, and belt bags and shirt trims that looked like pianos. The collection featured structured silhouettes, including pieces like a blazer with oversized, rounded shoulders, and a jumpsuit with giant frills extending away from the body, employing a vibrant palette of tones like red, pink, golden yellow, and electric blue. It marked the final installation in Pyer Moss’ three-part “American, Also” series, which was created to uncover stories of Black people’s contribution to American pop culture.
Eckhaus Latta debuted a collection of chic and futuristic comfort for Spring/Summer 2020 in a sparse, industrial warehouse setting. Prints included different iterations of an optical-illusionary stripe, which morphed or zig-zagged in looks like a jersey knit top and pants, or a midi-length dress. Cuts were roomy without being overly large, and more traditional silhouettes were updated with details like angular, starched sleeves, and a water-repellant outerwear feel—seen in looks like a simple tank top and cargo pants; or a white shirt dress with a metal eyelet detail at the collar. Each look was completed by dewy, shower fresh hair and makeup, and a shoe collaboration with Ugg, which included several variations on a box-toed style like a clog, platform sandal, and loafer.
Ample silhouettes and loose tailoring graced the bare, bright runway of The Row’s Spring/Summer 2020 presentation. A series of wardrobe staples for the working professional, the collection included classic pieces like collared shirts, blazers, tailored trousers, and ankle-length A-line skirts, in ultra-modern and oversized variations. All designs featured solid colors and materials, with the exception of a large structural applique-type lace, seen on pieces like a long black dress, a top with beaded detailing, and a variation in cream, which made up the entirety of a barely transparent dress. We loved the navy blue take on a workman’s jumpsuit, the classic paring of black pants and a white oxford shirt worn with a long overcoat, and a long collared dress in nude.
La Doyenne demonstrated the functional, wearable nature of its Spring/Summer 2020 collection by presenting it in action. The season’s new garments moved gracefully in time to a performance choreographed by Olivia MacKinnon and performed by dancers from The New York City Ballet. Deemed “Flora & Fauna,” the collection featured vibrant hues of purple, orange, fuchsia, and emerald, seen on pieces like a printed dress with a keyhole back, or a duster coat with short bell sleeves. The show focused on the impact of female leadership, working to create pieces that are easily transitional between seasons and events, from a day in the office to a formal evening out, presented in conjunction with The Macallan whiskey—who is now under the leadership of its first female ambassador.