Kicking off our New York Fashion Week coverage for Spring/Summer 2020 collections, we’re sharing details from presentations by Tom Ford, Thom Browne, and Rosie Assoulin.
Inspired by a photograph of Andy Warhol and Edie Sedgwick emerging from a manhole, Tom Ford’s runway show took place underground—in the New York City subway. The platform on Delancey Street and Bowery was transformed with an all-black covering and black lights to match. The collection looked to contemporary clothing that might not be considered runway-ready—like nylon basketball shorts reimagined as jersey silk jumpsuits and dresses—and turned them into simplistic fashion staples. Luxury sportswear and an easy-chic attitude came into play, seen in looks like shiny wide-legged sweatpants worn with a cropped top (reminiscent of a sports bra), and body suits and bikini-style tops (which were worn alone or under revealing tops). Even more elevated styles—like white button up tops and matching trousers—were given a nonchalant, sporty attitude by loose cuts and added details like baseball caps or spiky mohawk updos.
Celebrating the new season, Thom Browne brought us two new initiatives— the addition of a women’s tailoring service and a presentation entitled “The Officepeople.” In commemoration of the brand’s womenswear line becoming available at Bergdorf Goodman, a procession of 20 models arrived at Fifth Avenue and 58th Street via school bus— all carrying leather briefcases and clad in classic Thom Browne gray jackets, pleated skirts, and Oxford button ups. The office people then treated the world as their office, parading through the streets of New York in a performance depicting the “remarkable of the unremarkable,” ending with a living tableau of uniformity at Pulitzer Fountain. For the women’s made-to-measure service, the fashion house is now offering a selection of sharply tailored styles, including the double vent two-button jacket, backstrap trousers, and classic Thom Browne shirts. For Spring/Summer 2020, the brand will also be presenting its new collection later this month in Paris.
Rosie Assoulin’s new collection was shown in a warm space, engulfed in light pouring through the walls of an open-air colonnade. New pieces showed exuberant colors, inventive styles, and a sundry of plaids and stripes. Silhouettes featured comfortable shapes with ample folds, ties, and structured frills and flounces—seen in looks like a white blouse paired with striped trousers (trimmed with ruffles reminiscent of the brim of a sunhat), and a black dress with open sides and back. The prints of the season included several iterations of summery plaid (in colors like pale yellow, deep green, turquoise, white, and pink), various stripes, and a bright abstract paisley design. Other pieces we loved were the orange floor-length skirt with the green belt, and the summer plaid jumpsuit with wide legs, puffed sleeves, and a bodice with ties and strings.