Last week and this week in Paris, menswear brands are debuting their new collections online in lieu of in-person events. Below, find details on what we saw from Louis Vuitton, Berluti, and Rick Owens.
Berluti’s Spring 2021 collection features a collaboration with American sculptor Brian Rochefort. Debuted digitally through an online screening, the designs are informed in texture, color, and methodology by ceramic art, a love of the house’s Creative Director, Kris Van Assche, and Rochefort’s chosen medium. The collection’s prints are comprised of an amalgamation of colors and organically occurring patterns, like swirls, dots, and drips, reminiscent of the artist’s tactile creations and inspired by exotic plants and volcanoes. Takes on classic button-ups and trousers are updated with loose cuts and drawstring waistlines and are paired with accessories like printed oxford shoes and shoulder bags shaped like miniature trunks.
For Spring/Summer 2021 collection, “Message in a Bottle,” Louis Vuitton introduced the promise of new designs to come with a short film. The video follows a colorful cast of animated creatures around Paris as they pack branded shipping containers onto a boat, set to cross the ocean. On August 6, when the shipment arrives in Shanghai, the runway show will be revealed. The collection and accompanying presentation follow Creative Director Virgil Abloh’s continuous theme of boyhood and viewing the world from a child’s perspective.
Rick Owens’s Spring/Summer 2021 designs turned menswear wardrobe classics like suits, joggers, and biker jackets into a captivating collection for the fashion-forward dresser. Coats and blazers were seen in oversized, voluminous iterations, styled with shorts, boots, and slouchy tank tops that hung off the body. Trousers took on several variations, including a wide-legged cargo style and a pair with a dropped crotch and waistline that rose to the bottom of the ribcage. Looks were given an edge of androgyny with the inclusion of like ultra-high tailored waists, all-mesh garments, and platform heeled shoes. The highlight looks included a plaid jacket worn with striped shorts and pink sneakers, a kilt-style bottom that looked as though it were made from a tailored overcoat worn with a cut-out tank top, and a structured shoulder coat paired with a speedo-style bottom and thigh-high boots.