Whitewall is in Paris this week covering the Fall/Winter 2019 collections from Saint Laurent, Chloé, Rochas, and Sandro.
Serving us an optical treat with a mirrored wall and lighting effects, Saint Laurent’s Fall/Winter 2019 collection left a glowing impression inside a cavernous, blacked-out presentation space. During the first part of the runway show, models moved down the catwalk in a deeply hued selection of head turning silhouettes like a frilled leather skirt with a transparent mesh top, high-cropped shorts paired with an open jacket and heels, and a one-shouldered mini dress boasting a giant bow. Completing the presentation, a rave-worthy light show accompanied a selection of glow-in-the-dark looks, which created the illusion that bodiless garments were moving of their own accord, multiplied within the reflective walls. Some details we just can’t get over include the 1980s-reminiscent structured shoulders, the subtle integration of elements like sequins, sparkles, and feathers, and the cool vibes brought about with the inclusion of accessories like hats and sunglasses.
An eclectic combination of girly elements and updated takes on practical silhouettes, Chloé brought us a collection for the effeminate tomboy. Cargo pants met high-waisted bell bottoms, imagined in both plaid and denim. Dresses both short and long featured movable, breathable cuts, focusing on embellishments in the sleeves and neckline—like a burnt orange mini style dress with buttons on the shoulder and lacy cuffs. Prints included toile, plaid, an argyle variation, and a range of florals in a palette of quintessential fall colors like mustard, blue, red, and army green. While we loved the collection, the range of handbags, eyewear, shoes, and jewelry styled with each look were the real stars of the show. Our favorites? The corduroy and leather cross body bag with the horses and “Chloé” lock, and the chunky-heeled cross between a Chelsea style shoe and rainboot.
Rochas stepped back in time, revisiting the work by Marcel Rochas and his wife Hélène for the house’s Fall/Winter 2019 collection. Instead of following the streetwear trend taking flight all over the world, the Rochas chose to reclaim its heritage, following a trail of Chantilly, silk, organza, and rich wools. Reminding us of something that might be worn by Grace Kelly or Jackie Kennedy, a strong air of elegance and a nod to the past ran through designs like a black boatneck dress that falls to a midi length, and a collarless tweed jacket and matching skirt, worn with an oversized black hat. Other highlights included the feathery black gown with the white straight pointed collar and the white satin blouse and skirt with the tiny printed flowers.
Embracing the idea that attitude is everything, Sandro followed the elegant energy of the 1980s to give us a collection of updated icons. Matching suits were a stylish office staple this season, seen in looks like a black on black blazer and skirt pairing, worn with quilted leather cowboy boots, and a matching hounds tooth jacket and shorts. Classic prints of the decade were updated, offering an abstracted cheetah-inspired print, as well as several takes on florals and paisley designs. Acid-wash denim made a welcome comeback, but in the form of trouser-style jeans with a tie at the waist, styled with heeled sandals and a cropped cardigan. Something we loved? The wide range of jackets paired with almost every look, varying from fringed overcoats and leather bombers with fuzzy trims, to printed blazers and woolen plaid with tasseled edges.