Whitewall is in Paris this week covering the new Fall/Winter 2019 collections debuted by Sonia Rykiel, Issey Miyake, Delpozo, and Alexandre Vauthier.
Creating a presentation of French girls in French clothes, Sonia Rykiel photographed its Fall/Winter 2019 collection around the city, intimately capturing each model in her essence as a Parisienne. Embracing eclecticism along with the idea that anything goes, we saw the inclusion of print-on-print pairings and the intermingling of multiple textures, as well as a rainbow hued play on stripes—seen in looks like a long striped knitted dress worn with a camel wool coat, leopard print hat and scarf, and a pair of patchwork snakeskin boots; and a zigzag patterned blouse paired with a striped scarf, black bell bottoms, and chevron heels. While each look had a distinct personality of its own, individual garments remained transformable, easily moving in and out of different styles or occasions. Looks we loved the most included the all-over black sparkling jumpsuit with the quilted jacket and lace-up heeled boots and the patchwork dress worn with snakeskin cowboy boots and a thickly knit sweater around the shoulders.
Clean, pure, and approachable are words that come to mind when looking at Delpozo’s Fall/Winter 2019 collection. A selection of elevated styles for both special occasions and everyday life, the line included simple pieces like swinging shift dresses, ankle grazing trousers, and camel duster overcoats, but with the addition of sweet, bold details like bias-cut ruffles, soft gathers of fabric, and bright prints and embroidery. Neutral colors were accompanied by surprisingly bold ones, like a blue silk brocade dress with vibrant orange blooms covering its surface, and a brown oxford shirt with blue sequined flowers on each shoulder. Highlights included a deep green coat with the large ruffles, an ankle length dress with sequined embroidery, and a selection of bow-covered handbags accompanying many of the looks.
For Issey Miyake’s Fall/Winter 2019 collection, the brand introduced us to a kaleidoscopic collection of comfortable and ample silhouettes with distinctive structural details. New this season was the introduction of “DOUGH DOUGH,” a flexible textile with unique shape memory, which has been used to create sculpture-like fabric folds, gathers, and layers, seen in pieces like a cardigan with a mirage-like stripe pattern and framed sleeves that extended away from the arm, and a teal coat with the large scarf-like folds around the collar. Colors across the spectrum were seen on a number of geometric prints—on a patchwork raincoat with the gathered collar that reminded us of crumbled paper, and a single button blazer with the squared take on the scalloped hem. Also included was the continuation of a collaboration with United Nude, which introduced two new shoe styles: an ankle boot and a flat mule shoe.
Alexandre Vauthier debuted a collection of charming eveningwear and elevated suit styles, re-imagining your traditional black-tie wear in new dimensions. Traditional men’s cuts and tailoring were updated to fit the female form, seen in looks like a houndstooth overcoat and matching skirt, or a plaid vest and jacket worn with trousers and a blouse with a frilled neck. Dresses both short and long highlighted the feminine form through details like plunging necklines, ruched seams, frills and bows, and glittering sequins. Our favorite part? The many different takes on the men’s tuxedo, including the floor-length black wool skirt and cropped jacket, and the black trousers and white silky blouse with the billowing sleeves, worn with a bowtie, sans jacket.