Jacquemus

Courtesy of Jacquemus.

Jacquemus

Courtesy of Jacquemus.

Acne

Courtesy of Acne.

Acne

Courtesy of Acne.

Sacai

Courtesy of Sacai.

Sacai

Courtesy of Sacai.

Berluti

Courtesy of Berluti.

Berluti

Courtesy of Berluti.

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Paris

PFW Men’s FW20: Jacquemus, Acne Studios, Sacai, and Berluti

We’re wrapping up Men’s Paris Fashion Week with a look at the Fall/Winter 2020 collections, presentations, and events. Below, we’re highlighting details from Jacquemus, Acne, Sacai, and Berluti.

On a large white runway—nearly the size of an ice-skating rink—Jacquemus presented its latest collection. With a beige color palette at its base, we saw an array of looks that kept color blocking at the forefront. From light bone to lavender, we saw new pieces for the modern man who’s looking for functionality and a bit more. New for the season were a handful of accessories—ranging from large totes and cross-body bags to water bottle harnesses worn on a lanyard around the neck. Elongated coin purses dangled from belt loops, as did key chains from fingers, and bucket hats and narrow sunglasses shaded lights from above.

Overall, we noted a relaxed attitude during the show, with men flaunting half-zipped jeans worn over suit pants, overalls straps clasped but pulled below the waist, and linen shirts with large pockets tucked into boxers—adorned with a print of sizzling eggs and “Bon appetit”—and then trousers. Outfits color coordinated in meticulous ways, too. For one look in particular, we noticed ombre pants fading from one color to the next, matching shoes and the jacket to each color, with the undershirt and bag matching, too.

Acne Studios presented its latest collection on a minimal runway—under a curved ceiling holding black stage lights and a sliver of a mirror. Against a long white wall, guests got a glimpse of the first pieces, an exploration of artificial intelligence. For the new line, creative director Jonny Johansson tapped generative artist Robbie Barrat, who writes algorithms he calls “neural networks.” For FW20, thousands of classic looks from the house were intentionally fed into Barrat’s networks and generative systems incorrectly. The outcome caused intentional mishaps in the pieces, creating design starting points for an entirely new suggestion. Perforated shirts mimic the glitches of rendered images, polo shirts are missing fastenings, tailored coats have collars around the neck and curved cutaways at the front, and trench coats have storm flaps and imbalanced draw strings.

Due to the machine’s understanding or misunderstanding of volume, print, and fabric, checks are blurred, bags range from tiny to gigantic, and pieces like leggings have technical structure. Padded coats and suit jackets balance the disarray, though, and we even noted a few blow-up accessories being carried—like a black heart-shaped balloon piece. “It is amazing to see that Artificial Intelligence can be freeing as a creative tool. I wanted the collection to be alive with new possibilities for how we wear clothes, while also being grounded in strange reality,” said Johansson.

In Sacai’s collection notes, we noticed a quote from Albert Einstein: “I believe in intuitions and inspirations. I sometimes feel that I am right. I do not know that I am.” During the packed show—presented on a shiny runway in front of bright lights—we saw the quote come up again, printed on a shirt with a portrait of Einstein sticking his tongue out. The “I do what I want” attitude of the show was carried throughout, from beginning to end, with a lineup of looks that ranged from matchy-matchy and color-coordinated to punky and military-inspired. The intuitive thinking of Einstein clearly resonated with Sacai’s designer Chitose Abe, who, with this collection, took the opportunity to continue expanding boundaries and collaborations. Abe’s starting point for the collection was interestingly enough a pant suit—infused with a new take on elegance to heighten senses of utility and a full head-to-toe look.

Military outerwear typically seen topping outfits—like coats, pleated green dusters, bombers, and peacoats—were worn underneath shorter and thinner pieces. We saw a hybrid of pieces, too, like a denim jacket and pencil skirt becoming one with a zipper, and a down jacket and wool blazer stitched together. Sturdy knee-high boots, flat-brimmed hats, and chains made up of signet rings toughened the overall feel. The green militia-like tones moved quickly to the punk rock beats of black and red plaid, then to animal prints of leopard spots, and more solids. Soon after, we got a look at an unusual bandana-inspired print that graced several looks—a custom tattoo sketch by Los Angeles-based tattoo artist Dr. Woo—complete with matching bags. And special for this collection is the next drop for sneakerheads around the world—the next iteration of Sacai’s partnership with Nike, the Nike Vaporwaffle.

Berluti’s latest offerings are testaments to the diversity of luggage. In the new collection, we noted hard-shelled pieces featuring combination codes, large totes, and bags with leather corner protectors. We also caught sight of a new backpack, featuring leather handles, a utility buckle fastening the top to its body, and individual pockets for sunglasses and, of course, a pair of Berluti shoes.

 

 

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