Paris Fashion Week is underway, so we’re highlighting the best details from the Spring/Summer 2020 presentations from brands like Hermès, Celine, Valentino, and Givenchy.
In a warm, immersive space reminiscent of terracotta and leather, Hermès presented its latest collection. The house’s loyalty to leather was heightened this season with new details like advanced strap closures, pleats, and cutouts. Tops with wide crisscross straps were open at the back; dresses to the knee with pleats had zip-up torsos and small cutouts held together by silver squares at the waist; and shirts with bib-like leather fronts were tapered in at the waist with a thin belt. New accessories were of note, too, like the enlarged sterling silver Chaine d’Ancre Enchainee necklace, the half-covered leather bangle, and gladiator-esque sandals with narrow strips of nylon and leather.
In the Place Vauban square at the Les Invalides, Celine debuted its new collection on a marble gray floor with a dark, dazzling backdrop. Original music by Automatic, mixed by Joo-Joo Ashworth, provided the perfect beat for models to step to in the brand’s latest line. The brand’s creative director, Hedi Slimane, styled all looks and dreamed up the set design. Cool girls in maxi dresses, jean jackets, and boots paved the way for more elevated numbers, like an evening dress made almost entirely of sequin strips. Looks were paired with dainty necklaces, bangles, boots, and waist belts, and nearly all were topped with a tight head scarf or a wide-brimmed hat.
Valentino’s show was a tropical traverse through designer Pierpaolo Piccoli’s mind. Foliage from the jungle was seen reimagined, gracing garments and accessories with bold colors like jungle green, fiery red, tangerine, and amaranth purple. On the brand’s mood board were an array of inspirational touchpoints—ranging from glowing light fixtures to religious gatherings, and from sculptures to tropical landscapes. Seamlessly translated were flora, fauna, and animals—seen on dresses and bags. Braided rope sandals and leather fringe on bags added a casualness to the sophisticated new offerings; and ostrich feathers erupted from hand-sewn beading embellishments on an evening dress from a new-age bride’s dreams.
On a stark white runway, Givenchy presented designer Clare Waight Keller’s collection inspired by crossroads. Old-world Paris meets the denim spirit of New York City, full of botanical worlds and urban energy. Bold colors like marigold, emerald green, red, and magenta are seen against sandy neutrals. Abstract florals come to life in pigment prints; there’s a monochrome hound’s tooth print; and tailoring varies for leather bandana tops, trench coats, shell-knit Bermuda shorts, and evening gowns. Spring/Summer 2020 also welcomes new accessories like the slouchy triple pouch bag with a double “G” in beveled leather, calf boots with block heels, and geometric hoop earrings finished in matte black rubber.